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Thursday, March 28, 2013

Mar 7, Build a Rabbit Hutch with a PVC Frame for Durability and Easy Cleaning

Here are rabbit hutch plans for a PVC hutch frame that can hold up to 6 all-wire rabbit cages. The hutch frame is almost indestructible, and cleaning is a breeze. Just cover and use.



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These plans will build the very large PVC hutch frame pictured above.

Do you need a much smaller hutch frame for your one or two pet rabbits?

You'll find more ideas and options at
Build Your Own Rabbit Cage
.

This PVC rabbit hutch frame has finished dimensions of over 7 feet wide and 6 feet high. It handles two tiers of cages, and there’s room to put a slanted drop pan underneath the top tier for ease of cleaning.

Need help?
Picture of DIY Livestock Rabbit Housing ebookThe World of Raising Rabbits 2nd e-book, DIY Livestock Rabbit Housing is now available for instant download!

It will give you the plans and fully illustrated directions for building this very large 2-tier rabbit hutch frame, plus all the other livestock rabbit housing methods we use at Aurora Rex Rabbit Ranch.

Plus, we review other rabbit housing options, and fully guarantee your satisfaction.

Purchase DIY Livestock Rabbit Housing today for just US$8.49, and begin using the plans immediately upon completion of the transaction!

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BONUS: TIPS for getting the angles right in DIY Livestock Rabbit Housing!

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For complete information, go to Rabbit Hutch Building Plans.

With this PVC frame and the cages to hang on it, you'll need very little more to set up a modern, efficient backyard rabbit hutch for home-grown, hormone-free meat or food self-sufficiency. Once you’ve built this frame and hung your rabbit cages on it, the only thing left to do will be cover it (and the rabbits) from the elements. Put it in a shed; or build a wooden roof for it; or put it under a strong canopy. (This is what we do.)

Materials:
6 - 1 ½ inch caps
2 - Couplers
4 - Elbows
14 - Tees
2 - X’s (4-way couplers)
80 feet - 1 1/2 in. PVC Sch 40
(you’ll have a few feet extra)

Tools:
PVC Saw (or hacksaw)
Tape Measure
Sandpaper-100 grit (used is fine)
Heavy Pencil (or anything that marks well on PVC)

Directions:PVC connectors for constructing a PVC rabbit hutch frame
1) Cut 1 ½ inch PVC pipe to correct lengths, and sand the burrs from all ends.

2) Assemble and glue together each outside leg segment, just the legs, without the connectors. See chart and pictures: Start with a 1 ½ inch cap. Insert and glue in order: 23 ½ inch PVC 1st Tee, longwise 18 inch PVC 2nd Tee, longwise, and 90 degrees from 1st Tee 7 ½ inch PVC 3rd Tee, longwise, and oriented along same plane as 1st Tee 19 ¼ inch PVC Elbow, oriented as 2nd TeeAll 6 legs of PVC rabbit hutch frame assembled
You'll see from the picture that for 2 outside legs you'll turn the second Tee (and elbow) to the right and the other 2 you'll turn the couplers to the left.

3) Assemble and glue together middle leg segments, just the legs: Cap 43 ¾ inch PVC 4-way connector (X) 8 ¾ inch PVC Coupler 19 ¼ inch PVC Tee, oriented to the same plane as the 4-way connector4) Insert and glue 32 inch PVC pieces to adjoin left side legs and right side legs.

5) Each side should now have 2 Tees and 2 Ells facing straight up. Insert and glue 42 inch PVC arms into all of these (8).
PVC rabbit hutch frame is half-assembled
6) Insert and glue middle legs to one of the sides. Note: You can easily glue one Ex or Tee at a time. After you apply glue and assemble, quickly insert the other arm unglued, so the angle stays correct. After 15 seconds, pop the unglued arm back out, apply glue, and reassemble. It’s flexible, and easy to do.

7) Turn the nearly assembled half back on its side, and shove it up against an immovable object. I shoved mine up against my truck wheel (after moving the other half out of the way). The side of the garage, or workbench, is even better. This is because you’ll need to apply pressure to finish the assembly. You’re almost done with your entire rabbit hutch frame already!

8) Place the two pieces the way they'll end up when finished.

9) One-at-a-time, glue remaining arms into the middle legs.
See note at Step 6.

Congratulations! You’ve just completed your modern and durable rabbit hutch frame. It's ready to hold up to six rabbit cages.

See how to set it all up with cages. We show you how to hang the cages on the PVC hutch frame, how to install the drop pans, and set up a gravity-fed automatic water system by Edstrom. Hang J-feeders on the fronts of the cages, and your rabbits will be ready to move into their brand new rabbit hutch.

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Rabbit's Eye View of Rabbit Run
Our outdoor rabbit run makes a terrific exercise pen. In fact, if you like, you could house your rabbit in it for many months of the year, pulling it to fresh areas of lawn every day. Check out our rabbit run plans, or get plans for large and extra-large rabbit runs (with wheels) in DIY Livestock Rabbit Housing.

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Mar 7, Rabbit Breed Descriptions. All rabbit breeds listed, linked to more info

This is the first page of our long list of short rabbit breed descriptions. It is our table of contents linking you to history, breed information, and pictures for each breed.



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You'll find alphabetized breed descriptions starting with A through F below. If the rabbit breed title is a link, you can follow it to our full rabbit breed description, history and pictures.

If the breed is recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders Association, our All Rabbit Breeds page may offer links to the National club, where you might find even more info, including breeder lists.

Skip A-F, and go to rabbit breed descriptions from G to N

Skip A-F, and go to rabbit breed descriptions from O to Z

Enjoy these rabbit breed descriptions from A to F!

RABBIT BREED DESCRIPTIONS -- A-Am

Alaska Rabbit
Medium-sized black glossy rabbit originating in Germany, weighing 7-9 lb (3.17 - 4.07 kg). Created for their fur, which is plush and intensely pigmented.

Altex
Not a show breed, but a purebred Terminal Sire rabbit for commercial meat use originating in the USA. Meant for mating with commercial New Zealand White or other commercial crossbred does. Bucks and does weigh 13 lbs. As a superior meat producer, the Altex is intended to improve profitability and the lives of rabbit raisers in developing countries.

RABBIT BREED DESCRIPTIONS -- Am (Return to Top of Page)

American Rabbit
The American is a commercial meat rabbit originating in the USA in 1918. Comes in deep blue or white, and weighs 9-12 lbs (up to 5.45 kg). This breed is critically endangered, but possibly rebounding slowly. It has a mandolin body shape and substantial depth in the hindquarters.

American Fuzzy Lop (see Lops for rabbit breed description)

American Sable (see Sable for rabbit breed description)

RABBIT BREED DESCRIPTIONS -- Angora, Chinese - French
(Return to Top of Page)

Angora, Chinese
Chinese breeders in China developed a large, Red-Eyed-White Angora breed specifically for the commercial wool market. Their fleece is approximately 15% bristle fiber. They weigh 4.1 - 4.4 kg (9 - 9.75 lb).

Angora, Dwarf
Developed simultaneously in several countries, these "little fluff balls" are miniature English Angoras weighing 1.10 - 1.75 kg. They are recognized in several varieties; some dwarf angoras, such as those in France, are larger and more resembling the French Angoras.

Angora, English
Angoras have been bred for their wool in England for more than 500 years. These are the rabbits with wool and furnishings covering nearly every part of the rabbit. Their silky wool grows to 5 inches or longer, and mats fairly easily. Angoras come in a plethora of colors, and weigh 5 - 7.5 lb (2.26 - 3.4 kg).

Angora, French
French Angoras are considered the original Angora breed. Their faces have short wool however the ears may be tasseled. Wool is to be dense, and up to 4 1/2 inches or more in length. They come in many colors and weigh between 7 1/2 to 10 1/2 lbs.

RABBIT BREED DESCRIPTIONS -- Angora, German - Satin
(Return to Top of Page)

Angora, German
Originating in Germany, this is an English Angora that has been selectively bred for greatly increased wool production. Wool is dense and silky but not cottony. They come in Ruby-Eyed-White only, and weigh 5.5 - 12 lb, larger being better.

Pet Mountain - Rabbit Supply
Angora, Giant
The Giant Angora originated in the USA and has the attributes of German Angora rabbits bred to a larger size and with a commercial body. They come in Red-Eyed-White only, and weigh 9.5 pounds or more. No upper limit to weight.

Angora, Mini English
These New Zealand bred rabbits are a scaled down version of English Angoras, and are very rare. They come in a myriad of colors. Any weight over 2 kg (about 4.5 lb) is a disqualification.

Angora, Satin
Originating in Canada, this is a French Angora with satinized wool. It comes in all the accepted angora colors. The wool is soft with lovely sheen. The Satin Angora weighs 6.5 - 9.5 lb (3.5 - 4 kg)

RABBIT BREED DESCRIPTIONS -- Argentes, Bleu - Champagne
(Return to Top of Page)

Argente, Bleu
PetSmart A heavily silvered blue/lavender rabbit weighing 2.72 kg (6lb) according to the BRC standard. Source for this breed is possibly the Argente Clair, a German rabbit. Argente Bleus are called Klein Silber (Little Silver)in Germany, and Klein Zilver in Holland.

Argente, Brun
Originating in France, the Argente Brun was extinct, however was recreated in 1941. This is a silvered brown rabbit weighing 2.72 kg (6lb).

Argente, Champagne
This attractive French breed now exemplifies meat qualities within a once highly valued pelt the shade of old silver. In the USA, they are raised for meat and weigh up to 12 lb. Champagnes in the UK are called Argente Champagne and weigh 3.62 kg (8lb).

RABBIT BREED DESCRIPTIONS -- Argente, Clair - St. Hubert
(Return to Top of Page)

Argente, Clair
This German rabbit is called Light Groot Silver in Germany. They are Champagne d'Argents but with the recessive dilute blue as an undercoat instead of black. They are heavily silvered, and weigh between 3.5 - 5.5 kg (7 3/4 - 12 1/2 lb).

Argente, Crème
Argent Cremes originated in France where they have over 150 years of breeding history. This is a moderatedly silvered orange rabbit weighing a petite 2.26 kg (5lb) in the UK. The standard in the USA, however, calls for rabbits weighing between 8 to 11 pounds. This is a very attractive meat and fur rabbit in the USA, appreciated most by homesteaders.

Argente, Noir
The Argente Noir is a recent addition (2003) to the silvered rabbit collection. They originate in Holland, most likely from a scaled down version of the Champagne d'Argent. They weigh in at 2.72 kg (6 lb).

Argente, Saint Hubert
The St Hubert Argent is a heavily silvered black agouti rabbit already well established in France in the 1880's. It included the genes of wild European rabbits with Champagnes, Belgian hares and common French farm rabbits. Once extinct in its native France, the breed was resurrected in France using Champagnes and Belgian Hares, and recognized in its native land in 1993. In the UK, the Saint Hubert Argent weighs 2.72 kg (6lb).

RABBIT BREED DESCRIPTIONS -- Ba (Return to Top of Page)

Baladi Rabbit in EgyptBaladi
The Baladi is the result of attempts to create a heat-resistant rabbit for use as meat. It originates from Egypt, where native rabbits were crossed with Flemish Giants. The Baladi does tolerate heat better than NZWs, for example. They come in black, red and white, weigh around 2.7 kg (6lb) and have typical litters of 5-6 kits.

Bauscat
The Bauscat originated in Egypt from imported French Giant Blanc du Bouscat rabbits. This French breed weighs up to 13 1/4 lb. After 60+ years of battling the harsh Egyptian climate, the endangered Bauscat breed now weighs less than 8 lb.

RABBIT BREED DESCRIPTIONS -- Be (Return to Top of Page)

Beige
Both England and the Netherlands can claim development of the Beige, which is a lilac-colored rabbit weighing up to 6 1/2 lbs. In the UK, the Beige was briefly called Isabella, but the name reverted to Beige, however the Swedes now recognize a blue tortoiseshell variety of the Beige, and call it the Isabella Rabbit.

Belgian Hare
Originating in Belgium, the Belgian Hare was refined in England until they had achieved a domestic rabbit that was sleek and racy like the English wild hare.

Belgian Silver
This breed has as its background the Champagne d’Argent completely. The difference is in the degree of silvering. The Belgian standard calls for medium ticking or silvering, as in the American Silver Fox breed, while the Champagne is more fully silvered. Belgian Silvers weigh up to 5.5 kg (12.25 lb).

Beveren
Beveren rabbits are meat and fur rabbits. The BRC recognizes 5 'self' colors: blue, white, black, brown and lilac. In the UK, their weight is to exceed 3.62 kg (8lb). In the USA, Beverens are black, blue and blue-eyed-white, and max out at 12 lb (5.45 kg). They are an endangered breed in the USA.

RABBIT BREED DESCRIPTIONS -- Bl (Return to Top of Page)

Blanc de Hotot
The Blanc de Hotot is another French rabbit named after the area in which they were developed (Hotot-en-Auge). These are large, frosty-white rabbits with dark eyes and narrow black eye-circles weighing up to 11 pounds (5 kg).

Blanc de Popielno
The Blanc de Popielno, or Popielno White rabbit, is a meat rabbit breed that is roughly comparable to the New Zealand White rabbit in production capability. In a study conducted in 1989, NZWs were quicker to market, however the Popielno Whites made up for this lack in slightly greater reproductive performance and fewer losses of the young kits.

Blanc de Vendee
This albino rabbit breed got its start in France around 1911. This is a prolific white breed with a short, dense coat on a large pelt that would please the furriers. The Blanc de Vendee is most probably a red-eyed-white Beveren out of pure Blue Beveren stock, by Madam Douillard's own admittance. Blanc de Vendee weigh about 3.5 gm (7.75 lb), and today are few in number.

Blue of Ham
This breed dates to 1900 in the town of Ham-sur-Heure in Belgium. The Blue of Ham represented every good trait in a rabbit at the time. Flemish Giants and Vienna Whites went into their make-up. Because of their similarity to Flemish Giants, the Blue of Ham was eventually limited to a maximum weight of 6 kg (13.25 lb) which is still very large for a rabbit.

RABBIT BREED DESCRIPTIONS -- Bo-Bra (Return to Top of Page)

Bourbonnais Grey
The Bourbonnais Grey rabbit is local to central France. This breed is thought to be probably a cross between local French farm rabbits and the Gray Flemish Giant rabbit, with the addition of crosses to the Normand breed. The first showings of the Bourbonnais Grey as a breed occurred in 1921. This is a muscular, meaty rabbit weighing from 3.5 to 5 kg (7.7 - 11 lb). The Flemish Giant blood is still recognizable in its body type.

Brazilian (Rustico, pronounced HOOstico)
These are European domestic rabbits of unknown origins, probably brought to Brazil long ago by Portuguese sailors. In 1978, Dr. Kathleen Blair, a wildlife biologist on assignment in Brazil’s Caparao National Park, found these gentle "Rusticos" running free among other domestic livestock. She acquired some and bred them for the purpose of high-protein meat for the poor.

Brazilians are hardy in heat and cold. They thrive on poor forages. They are naturally docile; does and bucks cohabit peacefully, and the bucks will help guard the nest and look after the young.

The animals come in many different colors, both self, agouti and pointed, but always dilute; eyes are blue-gray. Bucks are smallish at 7 pounds (3.175 kg), while does may weigh up to 11 pounds (5 kg).

RABBIT BREED DESCRIPTIONS -- Bri-Bro (Return to Top of Page)

Britannia Petite (British Polish)
Britannia Petites are a tiny arched breed weighing no more than 2 1/2 pounds, and is presented standing up on its front paws. With the introduction of new colors came the dwarf gene. Pure strains of REW may breed true without producing lethal peanuts. This breed is currently recognized in Black, black otter, chestnut agouti, REW, and sable marten.

British Giant
The British Giant is a conglomeration of various large rabbit breeds in existence in England in the 1900’s, including the Continental Flemish Giant from Belgium. Also included were Flemish Giants from America to bring in other color genes to add to those available in the UK at the time. First exhibited and named in 1960, British Giants are unquestionably the largest of the British rabbit breeds today.

Brown Chestnut of Lorraine
French breed the color of brown chestnuts, resulting from local French rabbits enhanced with Black and Tans. Once thought extinct the breed was discovered to have survived WWII within a single rabbitry. Brown Chestnut of Lorraine rabbits weigh roughly 2 kg (4 1/2 pounds), are said to have rich coloration and excellent meat.

RABBIT BREED DESCRIPTIONS -- C (Return to Top of Page)

Caldes
Caldes rabbits are the result of an experimental meat rabbit project in Caldes de Montbui, near Barcelona, Spain. Six separate breeding lines were established in 1983 with the goal of producing the ideal meat rabbit. The breed is maintained in government and commercial ranches. The Caldes rabbit is a red-eyed-white (albino) rabbit well acclimated to Spain’s hot climate, and participates in studies to determine ideal rabbit practices. The Caldes may be Spain’s answer to the USA’s New Zealand Whites, in terms of excellence for meat production.

Californian Rabbits
The Cochinelle rabbit was the original name for Californian rabbits, which were developed in California in order to create the ideal meat and fur rabbit. They consist of New Zealand Whites bred to a Chinchilla-colored cross-bred buck. (The breeder spent 7 years crossing Himalayans with Standard Chinchillas before achieving this ideal buck.) Cals are white with black points (Himalayan-marked), weigh up to 9 1/2 pounds and exhibit a meaty commercial body. In the UK, they are also recognized in chocolate, blue and lilac points.

Carmagnola Grey
Il coniglio grigio di Carmagnola - the Carmagnola Grey is a large, chinchilla-colored rabbit derived from local domestic farm rabbits in the area of Carmagnola, in northwest Italy. Nearly extinct, the Italian government in conjunction with the University of Turin now maintains a population of roughly 500 Carmagnola Greys. This large, docile rabbit weighs around 5.5 kg (12.1 pounds). This breed is appreciated as producing high quality rabbit meat in Italy.

RABBIT BREED DESCRIPTIONS -- Cha-che (Return to Top of Page)

Champagne d’Argent
Also see Argente, Champagne for short rabbit breed description

Chaudry
The Chaudry is a French commercial rabbit, produced by combining every pure albino rabbit known in France. Minimum weight is 4 kg (8 3/4 pounds). The Chaudry is known for being prolific.

Checkered Giant
Black Checkered Giant RabbitThe Checkered Giant can be traced back to large spotted rabbits in France and Germany in the 1800’s. Added to the bloodlines of these spotted rabbits were Flemish Giants and French Lops, creating a very large spotted rabbit at first resembling an English Spot, but without the nose markings. Markings have been standardized in the USA as shown, and are accepted in black and blue spots. There is no maximum weight requirements; minimum is 11 pounds for a buck and 12 pounds for a doe.

RABBIT BREED DESCRIPTIONS -- Chin (Return to Top of Page)

Chinchilla, American
Using Standard Chinchillas, various breeders in the USA selected for greater size and weights, looking for larger pelts and finer meat. American Chinchillas were accepted by the ARBA in 1924. They weigh between 9-12 pounds, carry a commercial body type with chinchilla fur.

Chinchilla, Giganta
Development of the Chinchilla Giganta began in 1917 by interbreeding chinchilla rabbits with Flemish Giants and other European giant breeds. These enormous chinchilla-coated rabbits quickly spread throughout Europe, and were recognized in France by 1948. We suspect Chinchilla Gigantas are larger than the Giant Chinchillas of the USA but identical in every other way, as similar breedings were made with the same goal in mind - a very large chinchilla-coated rabbit useful for both fur and meat.

Chinchilla, Giant
To create Giant Chinchilla Rabbits, the Standard Chinchilla was crossed mainly with White Flemish Giants and American Blues, with a touch of New Zealand Whites and Champagne d’Argents. Today the Giant Chinchilla is heavy boned and long bodied, with commercial value being a prime consideration. Maximum weight listed as 16 pounds (does).

Chinchilla, Standard
The stories vary on how the Standard Chinchilla came about, however France is clearly the country of origin. The breed is the result of native French farm rabbits, plus Beveren and Himalayan. Black and Tans were mixed in to improve fur quality. It is likely that the chinchilla fur color predated the 'invention' of the Standard Chinchilla rabbit. Standard Chinchillas weigh up to 7 1/2 pounds.

RABBIT BREED DESCRIPTIONS -- Ci-Cz (Return to Top of Page)

Cinnamon
The Cinnamon rabbit breed is the result of the Fred Houseman family’s pet Easter bunnies bred to New Zealand White rabbits. Add in a rescued Checkered Giant and a crossbred Californian. Eventually the Houseman children had 2 ‘russet’ rabbits, genetically dark tortoiseshell. The kids’ breeding project gained the attention of the father, and then the ARBA. Cinnamons weigh up to 11 pounds and have a commercial body type.

Crème d’Argent (see Argentes) for rabbit breed description

Criollo
Criollos are the native (domestic), multi-hued rabbits found in the rural areas of Mexico and probably other South American countries. They have become acclimated to tropical heat as natural selection resulted in a smaller frame. Efforts are underway to create a rabbit breed that can perform well in the tropics, and the Criollo is part of the gene pool.

Cuban Brown
Little is known about the Cuban Brown rabbit, other than it is a self chocolate rabbit. The description of Cuban Browns closely matches Havana rabbits, which actually are native to Holland.

Czech Albin
The Czech Albin is a glossy white dual-purpose utility rabbit created in the 1920s by a Professor Zofka. They weigh 3.25 - 5 kg. Today their popularity in Czechoslovakia is waning.

Czech Spot
The first Czechoslovakian-created rabbit is the Czech Spot. It got its start with "common stable rabbits" in the very beginning of the 1900s. Today they can be found in black, blue, agouti and tri-colored, and weigh 3-4 kg, and are marked similarly to the larger Checkered Giants.

RABBIT BREED DESCRIPTIONS -- D (Return to Top of Page)

Deilenaar
The Deilenaar is a Dutch breed that is ‘warm red brown’ due to a bright agouti fur and black tipped fur. Their unique mackereling pattern is required to be "wavy" and not even. Body type is tight and cobby, meaty and muscular, however no weight limits are listed on the BRC standard of excellence.

Dutch
Dutch rabbits originate with the Brabancon Blue, a marked and smaller version of the Blue Beveren that is now extinct. They looked like 8 pound Dutch rabbits with a narrow blaze and abbreviated white saddle. Today’s Dutch markings and type were standardized in England in the late 1880’s. Dutch rabbits weigh up to 5 1/2 pounds.

RABBIT BREED DESCRIPTIONS -- Dwarf (Return to Top of Page)

Dwarf Hotot
Tiny all-white rabbit with a 1/8th inch band of black around the eyes. The Dwarf Hotot was created simultaneously in West and East Germany in the 1970’s, one breeder using Netherland Dwarfs alone, and the other crossing Hotot with Netherland Dwarf. Through a fortuitous exchange of rabbits, the breed was enhanced and standardized. In the USA the maximum weight is 3 pounds.

Dwarf Papillon
Created in Germany, the Dwarf Papillon is a pint-sized Checkered rabbit that weighs in at 2.75 - 4 pounds (1.20 - 1.80 kg). Czech Spots, themselves a small version of Checkered Giant, were crossed with Netherland Dwarfs to create the dwarf Papillon.

Dwarf Swiss Fox
The long-furred Swiss Fox was miniaturized in both Germany and Holland by crossing with Netherland Dwarf and Polish rabbits. They were recognized in the Netherlands in 1994.

RABBIT BREED DESCRIPTIONS -- E (Return to Top of Page)

Enderby Island
Dark silvered rabbits were released on Enderby Island south of Australia in 1865, whose offspring were intended as nourishment for any shipwrecked sailors. They indeed served this purpose for over 100 years, however in 1992, it was decided to eliminate all non-native populations in favor of native species such as sea lions. 49 rabbits survived the rescue, and became the foundation for the breed now known as Enderby Island rabbits. They are found in Champagne and Crème varieties, and ideally weigh 2 kg (4.4 pounds).

English Spot
Medium-sized arched rabbit with very distinctive spots on sides, spine and nose. Ears are colored. From the haphazardly-marked rabbits of the 1800’s, breeders have standardized and refined the spots, which are today well-recognized. In the UK, the breed is known simply as the "English" rabbit, and weigh 6 - 8 pounds (2.72 - 3.62 kg) (5 - 8 pounds in the USA).

RABBIT BREED DESCRIPTIONS -- F - Fle (Return to Top of Page)

Fauve de Bourgogne
This is an ancient French rabbit originally known as the "Deer of Burgundy." They varied in color and markings, until breeders decided to fix the chosen traits in the breed. Today the Fauve de Bourgogne is a yellowish-red rabbit with excellent commercial traits that somewhat resembles a New Zealand Red Rabbit. Permitted weights are 3.5 - 5 kg (7 3/4 - 11 pounds). Sometimes called Burgundy Yellow, they are included in many breeding programs in developing nations.

Fee de Marbourg (Marburger)
The Fee de Marbourg hails from Germany beginning in 1912, and recognized in Germany in 1924. The Fee de Marbourg is a deep Lilac color, and carries a lot of Havana blood. They weigh 2 - 3.5 kg (4.3 - 7.75 pounds). The breed also goes by the name of Marburger.

Flemish Giant Rabbit
Flemish Giants are the mammoths of the rabbit world, weighing 14+ pounds (6.36 kg) with no maximum constraints, and have contributed their genes to various other huge breeds. In the USA, Flemish Giants should be large yet balanced, and can be found in seven color varieties.

Flemish Giant (British)
In the UK, rabbits recognized under the name of Flemish Giant are distinct and smaller than the Flemish of the USA and Europe. They are accepted only in a dark grey steel, yet this is a false steel, as the belly is white. It should weigh a minimum of 11 pounds (4.97 kg), with no maximum weight listed.

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RABBIT BREED DESCRIPTIONS -- Flo - Fu (Return to Top of Page)

Florida White
Florida Whites were created in order to provide a smaller meat rabbit that could easily serve as a uniform yet smaller laboratory rabbit. Florida is, of course, the state of origin, and breeds used were REW Dutch, REW Polish and New Zealand White. They are fine-boned, with excellent dress-out percentage. They weigh 4 - 6 pounds.

Furless
TAMUK, home of the Furless RabbitFurless rabbits are the brain child of Dr. Steven Lukefahr, and created for the purpose of better survival in hot tropical climates in developing countries. Dr. Lukefahr crossed commercial New Zealand Whites with "Fuzz" (pictured), a 'borrowed' hairless Minilop. Furless rabbits require housing that protects them from chills and direct sunlight, and in these conditions, they appear to be much less stressed by extreme heat and humidity, and therefore the fryers grow better.

Learn about Breeds of Rabbits from G to N

Learn about Rabbits from O to Z

Our Rabbit Breeds page lists all the known rabbit breeds, to help you find the breed you're looking for.


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Wednesday, March 27, 2013

Mar 17, Bunny with messy bottom/gurgling tummy!

by Sue G
(Delta, PA)

I've posted here about my rabbit before. She gave birth to a litter 2 months ago. Soon after kindling, our doe started with a messy bottom and heavy breathing/panting. We took her to the vet on 2 separate occasions. The last time was b/c her bottom had begun to be very red/swollen due to urine scald and the messy poo (I'm guessing). Since she was still nursing, the vet would not prescribe an antibiotic but instead gave us a topical anti-bacterial solution to put on her bottom every day. Her messy poo seemed to go away.

Today, I noticed MORE very messy poo in her cage and on her bottom and her tummy is gurgling and she is gassy (I could see her tummy moving as it was gurgling). Her breathing had slowed down but not alarmingly slow. Just more "normal" than her characteristic heavier breathing since kindling. Her body temp seems normal and he is eating and drinking. I can't get her to a vet right now! What can I do for her? The only thing that I changed in her diet was adding a bit of Timothy hay to her normal Alfalfa (just last night). Could this be the culprit? I'm worried. Should I give her infant Mylicon drops to help with the gas? Thanks for any advice you have. I won't be able to get her to a vet until tomorrow at the earliest!

***** Karen Sez *****
Normally, I'd suggest you withhold feed from your doe for 24-48 hours, and give only water and timothy or orchard hay. This would help to normalize the bacteria living in your rabbit's hind gut.

But, I'm wondering if there is some contamination in your timothy hay?? What if you get a new batch of hay and try this with your doe?

If your doe has a bit of a chronic problem with this, perhaps you should replace the feed as well?

I have no experience with giving Mylicon; perhaps others who do can chime into this thread.


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Mar 18, Creating well-socialized baby bunnies

by Hannah
(Newborn,GA )

One of the double maned Lionheads I am keeping to breed with. Her name is Eisley. :]

One of the double maned Lionheads I am keeping to breed with. Her name is Eisley. :]

So, I have started breeding Lionhead rabbits and one of the most important things to me is making sure my babies turn out to be friendly and tame. This so far has been turning out fantastic. I handled the babies each day from the day they are born. I have spoken to people who have bought bunnies from me and they talk about what sweet bunnies they are. I have been able to meet back up with a couple of the bunnies, and see for myself how they are very sweet. They go limp in your arms and feel totally safe crawling all over you.

I was afraid since their mom was very skittish that it may try to pass down to the babies, but they have all turned out fantastic.

Sometimes, some babies seem to take longer than others to get settled in to being picked up and touched. I currently have two female kits that are about six weeks and are still a bit skittish. But I have had kits that seemed like this before, and turned out to be super sweet. The babies are raised in my room so that they are almost constantly around me, which makes it much easier to get them to be tame.

My question is, what are all the things I can do to really help all the bunnies be as tame as possible? I know a good bit of this rests on the owner's hands once they buy the little guy, they can't just ignore him and expect him to feel totally comfortable in his arms if they haven't touched him in months!

I know to be careful with how much I handle the babies around the first ten days, but after that, is there a certain limit to how much handling I can do? Is there anything to avoid doing or make sure to do to create super lovable, friendly bunnies?

***** Karen Sez *****
That's one stinkin' cute rabbit! You're doing a great job! If nothing's broke, there's nothing to fix, eh?

I think my only thought is that since bunnies sleep during the day, that they get the opportunity to sleep for long stretches during the day.

But, that's not hard to accommodate - kids go off to school until the afternoon, and adults work for 8 hours. The kits spend that entire time asleep.

You're getting great results with the amount of handling you're giving your bunnies, so it is hard to find anything else to worry about.


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Mar 6, Killing rabbits for food. 3 best ways to kill a rabbit

Killing rabbits for food. Here are several humane methods for butchering rabbits for food. These humane methods result in a painless lights-out for the rabbit.



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In the opinion of the rabbit butcher at Aurora Rex Rabbit Ranch, there are at least three very humane methods of killing rabbits for dinner.

Humane rabbit killing is very important.

Any stress during the butchering process can result in the release of adrenaline and other endocrine hormones associated with the animal’s flight response. These hormones negatively affect the flavor of the rabbit meat, and will toughen the meat.

If your farm’s rabbit meat tastes sweet like chicken, that means the rabbit died peacefully and humanely. 

The Broomstick Method

A broomstick or other straight pole is placed on the rabbit’s neck. The broomstick secures the rabbit’s head on the ground while the rabbit is pulled upward at 90 degrees by its hind legs. The process is very quick and painless, and nearly foolproof.

1) Place the rabbit on the ground in front of a handful of alfalfa hay or other treat.

2) Place a broomstick across the rabbit’s neck.

3) Step on one side of the broomstick.

4) Almost simultaneously: step on the other side of the broomstick, and then pull the rabbit’s body upward by the hind legs. Pull firmly until you can feel the neck bones disarticulate. This will feel like a give and a stretch.

At this point the rabbit will be shuddering in death throes.

Death throes are proof of death - hence, ‘death’ throes. The neck is completely separatedThe rabbit’s eyes are open. 'Open' does not mean 'aware.' It just means there are no signals to tell the rabbit to shut its eyes because it is dead.

5) Cut off the rabbit’s head through the break in the neck. This involves cutting through muscle and fur only, since the neck bones are completely separated.

6) Hang the rabbit by the hind legs to complete the rabbit slaughter and cleaning.

The Arterial Bleed

This is the method of killing that the Bible specifies. Despite this fact, our butcher does not utilize this method, possibly because it doesn’t result in instant death.

Nevertheless, there must be some reason why the Good Book mandates it. Since God declares Himself to be loving in nature ("God is love" 1 John 4:8), and since God frowns on cruelty to animals (Exodus 23:4, 12, Deuteronomy 22:1, Proverbs 12:10, to name a few passages), we believe that this method probably results in far less stress to the animals than we would tend to believe.

In South America, we watched Peruvians butcher their cattle by slitting the throat and by puncturing the heart. The animals showed no distress whatsoever. As their blood pressure bottomed out, their knees buckled and they went nighty-night....

1) Place the rabbit on the ground in front of a handful of alfalfa or other treat. Slice through both jugulars.  In less than a minute, the rabbit will be dead, and entering death throes.

2) Cut the head off and hang the rabbit up by the feet so it can finish draining. If you have trouble cutting through a joint in the neck bones, you can disarticulate the neck with the same motion utilized in the broomstick method, and then cut the head off.

A Fatal Blow

A sharp blow to the base of the head, done correctly, results in instant death. The blow by itself disarticulates the neck resulting in death.

We consider the Fatal Blow to be very humane, however there is more room for operator error, in our opinion. That’s why we place it at #3.

Or, a sharp blow to the top of the head renders the rabbit unconscious. One can then immediately broomstick the rabbit, killing it.

1) Hold the rabbit by the hind feet, head down. He'll not be too sure about this unusual position, but he'll settle down. You can also hold a smaller fryer rabbit at the loin.

2) His back, which is straight up and down, will form a V with the ears, which will be alertly forward. You want a generous V. If you need to, nudge the ears a bit more forward. See picture at right.

3) Strike the rabbit a sharp blow to the point of the V - immediately behind the ears but not on the shoulders. Strike downward.

4) If you're strong, you can deliver a karate-chop with the edge of your hand. If you're not confident in your strength, you can put out the lights with a half-inch pipe which is about 30 inches long, or so.

5) Hang the rabbit by the hind legs, even while in the throes, on heavy hooks, or with slip knots in shoelaces secured by a nail in the side of the butchering space.

6) Immediately cut the head off. Cut along the same trajectory as the blow you struck. Your knife will slip easily through the dislocation in the neck

7) Allow the rabbit to finish bleeding dry.

Killing rabbits, removing heads and hanging them to drain takes only a minute or less apiece.

One thing is for sure - the end of a domestic meat rabbit is nothing like the fate suffered by wild rabbits - running, hiding, dodging, getting caught and then ripped limb from limb while still alive.

"These are the beasts which you shall eat:
the ox, the sheep, and the goat...."
(Deuteronomy 14:4)

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Mar 17, New Zealand Fawns


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From Tammy in Texas:
"This has been the most useful, friendly and informational website I have ever used.  Thank you so very much. We found our pet rabbit Sunday night. People in the neighborhood where we found her say she was loose for about 2 weeks before she hopped up to me to be picked up. Your website helped us find out what kind of rabbit we found (Himalayan), what sex our rabbit is (female), how to house it, feed it and handle it (she was launching herself at us and smacking us with her front feet! - I am now the BIG BUNNY or a Hawk, whichever is needed!)."

From Shannon in Alabama:
"I can't thank you enough for your super informative website! I'm a mother of 4 looking for a way to add to our preparedness. I feel so much more secure and positive about my choice to start raising rabbits in our backyard. Thank you...."

From Jeanie in Florida:
"Hello, I really enjoy reading your web site."

From Marco in Spain:
"Thank you again for your advice, it really helped put our minds at ease... Keep up the good work with the website!"

From Candy in Ohio:
"Your website is wonderful!"

Need Cage and Hutch Building Plans? World of Raising Rabbits E-books and Mini-e-Books from Raising-Rabbits.com


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Mar 7, Rabbit Farming. Rabbit production in the big city or country

With very few exceptions, rabbit farming on a small scale, or even not-so-small, is possible no matter where you live. 



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To start out rabbit farming, in the big city or in the country, your best bet is to start with just a few rabbits at first. This is in order that you can learn the needs of your rabbits and get comfortable with the whole process so that any mistakes don't result in irrecoverable losses.

Meat Rabbit Breed Choices:
Choose a rabbit breed with rapid weight gains and adaptability to your climate. New Zealand Whites, Californians and Altex are well known for their commercial potential, but some strains of Silver Fox, American rabbits and Satins compete very well. The success of a commercial rabbit production enterprise will depend on getting fryers to market by 8 to 8.5 weeks.

If you're simply raising rabbits in your backyard for your own use, your rabbit breed choices are far greater, since "all rabbits are made of meat." There are many giant, large, medium, and small breeds of rabbits to choose from, depending on your preferences and your goals.

Getting Started:

Start with a buck and two does.The does will each need TWO cages measuring 36 inches by 30 inches.  One cage will house the doe, and her litter up until 6 weeks of age. At this point the cage will be getting crowded, and the doe will be glad if you move her to the second cage. The kits will remain in the first cage until market day.Butcher when the kits reach 4.75 to 6 pounds -- 8-12 weeks of age, depending on breed and quality of feed.Down the road, when it’s time to think about replacing your brood does, you will want a couple more cages. These can be the same size as the buck’s cage.  You’ll select a couple large and healthy young females out of your litters, and grow them to 6 months. At this point you can retire the older doe, and put the new doe into service.When these cages are not in use growing out replacement does, you can use one of them for a replacement buck. Hopefully you won’t need to replace the buck for several years.


Get inspiration from examples of rabbit farms here


Rabbit Housing

Simple and clean is best for your rabbits and their health. Consider building your own detachable rabbit cages and rabbit hutch frames.  We offer a few free plans; or you can purchase our full collection of enhanced and illustrated plans:

Rabbit Hutch Building Plans

World of Raising Rabbits

Building your own rabbit cages allows you to increase your rabbit farming project at your own rate. When you run out of rabbit housing space, just build more.

Rabbit Health

Foundational ways to achieve and maintain rabbit health.

Right: This Mini Lop buck has a very wet nose.

Excellent husbandry practices are the best way to keep your rabbits healthy, to kindle a large number of kits, to minimize losses, and to maximize the number of fryers going to market. Raising-Rabbits.com is here to provide you with these excellent animal practices and all the info you need to succeed at rabbit farming.

Utilize the navigation bar at left or the search box at the top to find the info you need.

Rabbit Diseases

Understand and manage the most frequently encountered rabbit diseases, parasites, infections, and non-infectious challenges to rabbit health.

FLY CONTROL

Rabbits are quiet, timid, and unobtrusive.  In other words, easy on the neighbors, as long as you keep the flies under control.

Keep the droppings raked up and tilled into the garden or moved to a covered compost heap

Set up worm beds under your cages

Keep a few chickens, ducks or both, to snap the flies out of the air and to devour the fly maggots and other insects before their numbers get out of hand.  There's a huge benefit to this last suggestion - "free" eggs!

Fly Predators are a fabulous and very effective way to wipe out your fly population. It's safe, non-poisonous, and completely natural. Plus, Fly Predators CAN be used successfully in conjunction with chickens to nearly eradicate flies.

Click on the banner to get started on freedom-from-flies today!

Spalding Labs - Fly Control Learn more at our Fly Predators page.

CONTROL AMMONIA LEVELS

Ammonia smell in animal urine can be dangerous to your animals, so eliminating ammonia odors is essential. And all the better if it's easy to do. With Spalding Labs’ Bye Bye Odor, rabbit farming is that much easier - just ‘spritz spritz spritz.’ Voila, odors minimized. 

Learn more at Ammonia Levels, or...

Go straight to Spalding Labs and get the straight scoop.

Rabbit Manure Collection

Rabbit farming results in lots of manure. Some outdoor systems allow the rabbit manure to fall to the ground, where it can be shoveled before the piles grow too large.

But, we wanted to bring your attention to an ingenious manure collection system that our friend Lisa in Connecticut set up. Maybe something like this could simplify your life, too?

Do not for a minute underestimate the capability, brute strength, and determination of raccoons, coyotes, foxes, weasels, bears, eagles, hawks, mountain lions, snakes, rats, and other predators to rip a flimsy rabbit hutch to pieces and help themselves to the rabbit(s) inside the hutch.

Rabbit farming is not a "Get Rich Quick" scheme. But the more products that your rabbit farm can market, the more likely it is that you may be able to someday make your hobby a profitable one, or to quit your day job.

Note that there may be state and federal regulations that apply to your enterprise. Please be sure to do your due diligence and educate yourself as to these laws and regulations.

You Can Sell...

Fryer rabbits. Market fryers are sold live by weight to a meat processor
Meat. Sell whole or cut up, frozen or fresh. Meat can be sold by the unit or by the pound, and prices vary by area. Breeding Stock. Other breeders or individuals new to rabbit farming may be looking for high quality pedigreed and healthy rabbits that are excellent representatives of their breed.
Homemade Pet Food. Cats are considered obligate carnivores with digestive systems that rely solely on raw meat. Dogs are very nearly so. Feed them a species-appropriate diet, and their health improves, sometimes dramatically. See Whole Food 4 Pets.Rabbit pelts. Rex pelts are in high demand in the USA and in Europe. The big name furriers need "bundles" of at least 40 matching pelts in order to craft their fine garments.

Rex is not the only breed that is sought after. Black, chinchilla and wild agouti pelts of various breeds are also desirable.

The most valuable pelts are the senior primes, harvested between October and March (in the Northern Hemisphere) when the adult winter coats are fully prime (no sign of molt).

Sell 'green' (preserved but not tanned) pelts Sell your professionally tanned pelts to a furrier Tan your own rabbit pelts (or have the professionals do it) and utilize them yourself by making and marketing the garments, mocs, blankets, pet toys (and more)
Wool (fiber). Angora wool can be sheared or plucked every few months. Sell the loose wool, or spin it and sell the fiber. Or, create your own angora products such as shawls, sweaters, socks and blankets for sale.  For more info on wooled breeds, see Angora Rabbits.Manure/fertilizer/mulch. There's a plethora of uses for the brown gold that accumulates (rapidly!) under the rabbit cages. Sell it by the pick-up load - gardeners LOVE it. Sell it by the used feed bag. Sell it composted or fresh. Offer a low "U-Shovel" rate to your gardening buddies.
Fresh Vegetables. If you have a vegetable garden on which you've spread copious amounts of rabbit manure, you're likely to reap an abundance of veggies. You can sell your surplus fresh vegetables at the local Farmer's Market or to friends and neighbors.
Worms. Several species of worms can inhabit rabbit droppings. Large, well-fed earthworms and red wrigglers (and whatever other name they go by in your area) are valuable to fishermen and to others wishing to populate their own worm bin projects.

CHECK OUT THE RABBIT REVOLUTION,
a blog centered around raising your own meat (namely rabbits) as a way to be free of the 'evil' meat industry.

For thousands of years, folks have raised their own meat. It is only in the industrial age that we've forgotten what innards look like.

Maybe it's time that we decentralize our food supply by raising our own meat and tending our own gardens!

Our Rabbit Supplies Store comes with Amazon.com's full A-Z guarantee. Buy with confidence...

Subscribe to Yahoo! MeatRabbits Group

There's nothing like having at your fingertips a group of friends who are all good at rabbit farming, and who have all encountered various problems and solved them.

Take advantage of their expertise! Join the Yahoo! MeatRabbits Group.

Then, when you feel capable, be sure to pay it forward, and help other newbies with their questions.

Are you of the opinion that butchering rabbits is cruel or that humans don't need meat? That we're herbivores by nature?

Consider this about herbivores:

Cud-chewing herbivores, such as cows, regurgitate their food back into their mouths so they can keep chewing it into smaller pieces. These animals also have four stomachs and have the ability through bacterial action to digest cellulose (humans cannot).Other herbivores, such as rabbits, digest their food not in their stomach but down in their cecum. Rabbits also practice coprophagy. That is, instead of regurgitating their cud into their mouths, they eat it directly from the rectum/anus.

There is not a single human being that has four stomachs. No (normal) human being either chews the cud or practices coprophagy.

History demonstrates unequivocally that humans have been meat-eaters throughout the entire time frame of recorded human history. Our digestive systems are still a meat-eater's digestive system, and we're healthiest for the long term when we eat at least some part of our diet in (grass-fed) animal protein and animal-based fats on a regular basis.

It cannot be considered cruel
to butcher and eat meat when consumption of animal protein is a requirement of the human body for long-term health.

"But," some vegans say, "we have evolved beyond the point where we need to kill in order to eat. We're intelligent enough to find other ways to eat that don't involve killing another animal."

Apparently there are no other options...

The fact that dietary vitamin supplements are essential for vegans to eat in order to remain healthy is stark proof that the vegan diet is inadequate for long-term health.

You can certainly try it for yourself, though... Certified Holistic Health Counselor Alex Jamieson did...

http://alexandrajamieson.com/im-not-vegan-anymore/

Ms. Jamieson's conclusion:
"I believe there is a middle way. There is no ONE way that everyone should live or eat. People can still love animals and care about protecting the environment AND honor their own animal bodies and consume the foods that they need."

We're omnivores. There is no shame in accepting the truth.

Learn more about animal rights, animal welfare, and human health here

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Please Visit our Amazon Rabbit Supplies Store

for many of your needed rabbit supplies, cages, equipment, even rabbit food.

(The shears pictured at right are excellent for butchering and cutting up a rabbit carcass.)

Find more resources here.

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Perhaps your comments or experiences can help others who read them.

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